{"id":98748,"date":"2024-11-16T22:58:00","date_gmt":"2024-11-16T19:58:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/?p=98748"},"modified":"2026-01-20T13:31:11","modified_gmt":"2026-01-20T10:31:11","slug":"vietnam-gezisi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/vietnam-gezisi\/","title":{"rendered":"Vietnam maceras\u0131"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"font-size:24px\">Sabah sisinin pirin\u00e7 tarlalar\u0131n\u0131 gizledi\u011fi, ak\u015famlar\u0131 ise sokak lambalar\u0131n\u0131n alt\u0131nda hayat\u0131n yeniden ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir \u00fclke Vietnam. Do\u011fas\u0131, kokular\u0131 ve insanlar\u0131n i\u00e7ten g\u00fcl\u00fcmsemesi akl\u0131mda kald\u0131. U\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n penceresinden son kez bakarken kendime s\u00f6z verdim: Vietnam\u2019a geri d\u00f6nece\u011fim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Vietnam  Gezisi\" width=\"1140\" height=\"641\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Zgn9z857Qio?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vietnam\u2019a gitmeye karar vermek kolay; as\u0131l soru nereden ba\u015flayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131zd\u0131r. Kuzeyde tarih kokan Hanoi mi, g\u00fcneyde enerjisi hi\u00e7 d\u00fc\u015fmeyen Ho Chi Minh City mi? Da Nang\u2019\u0131n sakin sahilleri mi, yoksa imparatorluk kentlerinin ta\u015f sokaklar\u0131 m\u0131? Her \u015fehir, kula\u011f\u0131n\u0131za ba\u015fka bir \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131 f\u0131s\u0131ldar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ama nereden ba\u015flarsan\u0131z ba\u015flay\u0131n, Vietnam sizi i\u00e7ine \u00e7eker. Ayr\u0131l\u0131rken bile kalbinizin bir par\u00e7as\u0131 orada kal\u0131r. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc bu \u00fclke \u00fc\u00e7 duyguyla ak\u0131lda kal\u0131r: \u00e7\u0131lg\u0131n \u015fehirler, nefes kesen do\u011fa ve damakta iz b\u0131rakan tatlar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bu yaz\u0131, Vietnam\u2019\u0131 bir u\u00e7tan di\u011ferine kat eden bir yolculuk. Ha Long K\u00f6rfezi\u2019nin sisli kayal\u0131klar\u0131ndan Mekong Deltas\u0131\u2019n\u0131n sakin sular\u0131na, Hoi An\u2019\u0131n sar\u0131 duvarlar\u0131ndan Hue\u2019nin tarih y\u00fckl\u00fc sokaklar\u0131na uzanan bir ke\u015fif\u2026 Haz\u0131rsan\u0131z, Vietnam\u2019\u0131n karma\u015fas\u0131yla huzuru aras\u0131nda gidip gelen bu yolculu\u011fa birlikte \u00e7\u0131kal\u0131m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Vietnam gezisinin ilk dura\u011f\u0131 Ho Chi Minh<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Motosiklet sesleri her y\u00f6nden y\u00fckseliyor. Sokak sat\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131 taze meyveleri, buhar\u0131 t\u00fcten noodle kaselerini uzat\u0131yor. Hava a\u011f\u0131r; nemli, hareketli ve canl\u0131. Vietnam\u2019\u0131n yeniden do\u011fan ticari merkezi, Asya\u2019daki de\u011fi\u015fimin en g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc simgelerinden biri olan <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/maps.app.goo.gl\/hg376zdS4Yu3AGmGA\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\">Ho Chi Minh<\/a><\/strong>\u2019nin tam ortas\u0131nday\u0131z. \u015eehir bir yandan gelece\u011fe ko\u015fuyor, bir yandan da k\u00f6klerini b\u0131rakm\u0131yor. Bu ikili ruh, her ad\u0131mda, her k\u00f6\u015fe ba\u015f\u0131nda kendini hissettiriyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ho Chi Minh\u2019i birka\u00e7 dakikada tan\u0131yabilirsiniz belki ama onu anlamak zaman ister. Ritmini yakalamak i\u00e7in bu hayat\u0131n i\u00e7ine kar\u0131\u015fmak gerekir. Sabah\u0131n ilk \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131yla kahve tezg\u00e2hlar\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda durmak, \u00f6\u011fleden sonra nehir kenar\u0131ndaki kalabal\u0131\u011fa kar\u0131\u015fmak, ak\u015fam sokaklar\u0131n nabz\u0131n\u0131 tutmak\u2026 Ancak o zaman \u015fehir kendini a\u00e7ar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bu hissi en iyi anlatanlardan biri <a href=\"https:\/\/tr.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Graham_Greene\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\">Graham Greene<\/a>\u2019dir. 1955\u2019te yay\u0131mlanan <em>The Quiet American<\/em> (<a href=\"https:\/\/tr.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Sessiz_Amerikal%C4%B1\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\"><em>Sessiz Amerikal\u0131<\/em><\/a>), Frans\u0131z s\u00f6m\u00fcrge sava\u015f\u0131n\u0131n g\u00f6lgesinde Vietnam\u2019\u0131n g\u00fczelli\u011fini ve karma\u015fas\u0131n\u0131 birlikte sunar. Sinemaya da uyarlanan film, <a href=\"https:\/\/tr.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Michael_Caine\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\">Michael Caine<\/a>\u2019in sesiyle \u015fu s\u00f6zlerle a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131r: <em>&#8220;Vietnam\u2019a geldi\u011finizde pek \u00e7ok \u015feyi hemen anlars\u0131n\u0131z ama as\u0131l olan\u0131 ya\u015famak gerekir. \u00d6nce koku \u00e7arpar insan\u0131, ard\u0131ndan s\u0131cak\u2026 G\u00f6mle\u011finiz k\u0131sa s\u00fcrede bir pa\u00e7avraya d\u00f6ner. Geceleri ise nehir g\u00fczeldir, esinti vard\u0131r ve bir an i\u00e7in sava\u015f\u0131n olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 sanabilirsiniz. Ta ki, olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bildi\u011finiz \u015fey ger\u00e7ekle\u015fene kadar. Ondan sonra hi\u00e7bir \u015fey eskisi gibi olmaz.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ho Chi Minh City de tam olarak b\u00f6yledir. \u0130lk bak\u0131\u015fta sizi b\u00fcy\u00fcler, zamanla i\u00e7ine \u00e7eker ve sonunda geride silinmeyen bir iz b\u0131rak\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Tarihin hayaletleri<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ge\u00e7mi\u015fin izleri, Ho Chi Minh City\u2019ye ad\u0131m att\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z anda sizi sar\u0131yor. Resmi ad\u0131 de\u011fi\u015fmi\u015f olsa da, bir\u00e7ok Vietnaml\u0131 i\u00e7in buras\u0131 h\u00e2l\u00e2 Saygon. 1970\u2019lerde kazan\u0131lan zaferle birlikte haritalara giren yeni isim, \u015fehirde ya\u015fayanlar\u0131n haf\u0131zas\u0131nda eskisi kadar g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc de\u011fil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Taksi \u015fof\u00f6r\u00fcm\u00fcz, kendi aram\u0131zda yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z T\u00fcrk\u00e7e sohbeti merakla dinliyor. \u015eehrin ad\u0131n\u0131 birka\u00e7 kez \u201cHo Chi Minh\u201d diye anmam\u0131z\u0131n ard\u0131ndan araya giriyor ve g\u00fcl\u00fcmseyerek d\u00fczeltiyor: \u201cHo Chi Minh de\u011fil, buras\u0131 Saygon.\u201d Eski ismin h\u00e2l\u00e2 bir mesele olup olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 anlamaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yoruz ama sormaya cesaret edemiyoruz. Belki de babas\u0131, o y\u0131llarda g\u00fcneyde sava\u015fanlardan biriydi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Biz de s\u00f6z\u00fc uzatmadan zafer i\u015fareti yap\u0131p \u201cSaygon\u201d diyoruz. \u015eof\u00f6r, dikiz aynas\u0131ndan memnun bir g\u00fcl\u00fcmsemeyle kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k veriyor. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir an, bu \u015fehrin tarih ile haf\u0131za aras\u0131nda nas\u0131l ince bir \u00e7izgide ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 anlatmaya yetiyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Kaos mu d\u00fczen mi anlayamad\u0131k<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ge\u00e7en y\u0131l\u0131n verilerine g\u00f6re Ho Chi Minh sokaklar\u0131nda yakla\u015f\u0131k <strong>7,3 milyon motosiklet<\/strong> dola\u015f\u0131yor. N\u00fcfusu 10 milyona yakla\u015fan bir \u015fehir i\u00e7in bu manzara kaotik g\u00f6r\u00fcnebilir. Ama Saygon\u2019un trafi\u011fi yaln\u0131zca karma\u015fa de\u011fil; klaksonlar\u0131n, ani d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015flerin ve sokak sat\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n olu\u015fturdu\u011fu canl\u0131 bir ritim. Burada kaos, \u015fehrin kendi d\u00fczeni.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Saygon Opera Binas\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnden ge\u00e7erken, kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131ndaki <strong>Imperial Hotel<\/strong> Frans\u0131z kolonyal mimarisiyle hemen dikkat \u00e7ekiyor. Bu binalar, \u015fehrin ge\u00e7mi\u015fini bug\u00fcn\u00fcn g\u00fcr\u00fclt\u00fcs\u00fc i\u00e7inde h\u00e2l\u00e2 f\u0131s\u0131ld\u0131yor. Saygon\u2019da cam g\u00f6kdelenlerle eski Frans\u0131z yap\u0131lar\u0131 yan yana duruyor; ge\u00e7mi\u015f ve bug\u00fcn ayn\u0131 sokakta y\u00fcr\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Opera Binas\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde gelinlik ve damatl\u0131klar\u0131yla poz veren bir \u00e7ift g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum. \u015eehrin g\u00fcr\u00fclt\u00fcs\u00fcnden kopmu\u015f gibiler. O an, Saygon\u2019un \u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc anlat\u0131yor: Ge\u00e7mi\u015fin y\u00fck\u00fcn\u00fc ta\u015f\u0131yan ama s\u00fcrekli yenilenen bir \u015fehir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">1900 y\u0131l\u0131nda in\u015fa edilen Opera Binas\u0131, bir zamanlar G\u00fcney Vietnam Ulusal Meclisi\u2019ne ev sahipli\u011fi yapm\u0131\u015f. Bug\u00fcn ise <strong>Bambu Sirki (L\u00e0ng T\u00f4i)<\/strong> sahnede; geleneksel dans ve m\u00fczikle modern Vietnam\u2019\u0131n hik\u00e2yesini anlat\u0131yor. T\u0131pk\u0131 bu \u015fehir gibi: Hat\u0131rlayan, ama durmadan yeniden do\u011fan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--nextpage-->\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Eski inan\u00e7lar yeni de\u011ferler<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bambu Sirki gibi <strong>su kuklac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131<\/strong> da Vietnam\u2019\u0131n inceli\u011fini yans\u0131tan en eski sanatlar\u0131ndan biri. Y\u00fczy\u0131llar \u00f6ncesine uzanan bu gelenekte kuklalar, beline kadar suya giren ustalar\u0131n ellerinde can buluyor. M\u00fczik, suyun hareketi ve renkli fig\u00fcrler bir araya geldi\u011finde ortaya \u00e7\u0131kan \u015fey sadece bir g\u00f6steri de\u011fil; Vietnam\u2019\u0131n ruhu. Ho Chi Minh halk\u0131 i\u00e7in bu sahneler e\u011flenceden \u00e7ok daha fazlas\u0131: k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerini ve k\u00f6klerini anlatman\u0131n en zarif yolu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Saygon, t\u00fcm h\u0131z\u0131na ra\u011fmen ge\u00e7mi\u015fiyle ba\u011f\u0131n\u0131 koparm\u0131yor. G\u00f6kdelenlerin g\u00f6lgesinde t\u00fcts\u00fc kokulu tap\u0131naklar, kalabal\u0131k caddelerin arkas\u0131nda sessiz avlular var. De\u011fi\u015fimden korkmayan \u015fehir, gelenekleri ya\u015fatmay\u0131 da bir sorumluluk gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcyor. Bu bir \u00e7eli\u015fki de\u011fil, tam tersine bir denge. Saygon\u2019un enerjisi de tam buradan do\u011fuyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u015eehrin en b\u00fcy\u00fcleyici hali ise ara sokaklarda sakl\u0131. Dar sokaklara sapt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131zda k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kahveciler, plastik tabureler ve g\u00fcnl\u00fck hayat t\u00fcm sadeli\u011fiyle kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131za \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor. Vietnam, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck ikinci kahve ihracat\u00e7\u0131s\u0131 ve Saygon\u2019da bir fincan <strong>c\u00e0 ph\u00ea s\u1eefa \u0111\u00e1<\/strong> ile \u015fehrin temposu k\u0131sa bir anl\u0131\u011f\u0131na yava\u015fl\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Son y\u0131llarda Vietnam b\u00fcy\u00fck bir d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm i\u00e7inde. Ho Chi Minh City\u2019de bu de\u011fi\u015fimi hissetmemek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. Ofis kuleleri, al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f merkezleri ve l\u00fcks konutlar h\u0131zla y\u00fckselirken, geleneksel yap\u0131larla yan yana duruyor. \u015eehir sanki s\u00fcrekli kendini a\u015fmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bir zamanlar k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir Kmer yerle\u015fimi olan Saygon, Frans\u0131z \u00c7inhindi\u2019nin g\u00f6zdesi oldu; sava\u015f sonras\u0131 ad\u0131n\u0131 ve rol\u00fcn\u00fc de\u011fi\u015ftirdi ama enerjisini hi\u00e7 kaybetmedi. Bug\u00fcn Ho Chi Minh City, ge\u00e7mi\u015finin g\u00f6lgelerini ard\u0131nda b\u0131rakm\u0131\u015f, G\u00fcneydo\u011fu Asya\u2019n\u0131n en canl\u0131 \u015fehirlerinden biri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Gece nehir boyunca yanan \u0131\u015f\u0131klar suya yans\u0131rken, \u015fehrin g\u00fcr\u00fclt\u00fcs\u00fc bile bir melodiye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor. Saygon, kaosla g\u00fczelli\u011fin, ge\u00e7mi\u015fle gelece\u011fin ayn\u0131 anda ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir \u015fehir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Z\u0131tl\u0131klarla dolu Saygon<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I\u015f\u0131l \u0131\u015f\u0131l g\u00f6kdelenleri, kalabal\u0131k pazarlar\u0131, dar sokaklar\u0131 ve kald\u0131r\u0131m tezg\u00e2hlar\u0131ndan y\u00fckselen yemek kokular\u0131yla Saygon, ba\u015fl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131na bir bilmece. Bangkok ya da Singapur kadar modern ama tezatlar\u0131 \u00e7ok daha keskin. L\u00fcks otellerle teneke \u00e7at\u0131l\u0131 evler, son model arabalarla el arabalar\u0131, neon \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131yla karanl\u0131k arka sokaklar ayn\u0131 karede bulu\u015fuyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u0130lk kez gelenler i\u00e7in \u015fehir biraz ba\u015f d\u00f6nd\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fc olabilir. Bu y\u00fczden ke\u015ffe <strong>1. B\u00f6lge (District 1)<\/strong>\u2019den ba\u015flamak en do\u011frusu. Saygon Postanesi, Notre Dame Katedrali, Sava\u015f Kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 M\u00fczesi, Ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k Saray\u0131 ve Opera Binas\u0131 birbirine y\u00fcr\u00fcme mesafesinde. Her biri, \u015fehrin ge\u00e7mi\u015fine a\u00e7\u0131lan farkl\u0131 bir kap\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sava\u015f Kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 M\u00fczesi sert ve sars\u0131c\u0131 bir durak. Hemen yan\u0131ndaki <strong>Saygon Postanesi<\/strong> ise bamba\u015fka bir atmosfer sunuyor. Frans\u0131z koloni d\u00f6neminden kalma bu sar\u0131 bina, y\u00fcksek tavanlar\u0131 ve zarif detaylar\u0131yla zaman\u0131 yava\u015flat\u0131yor. \u0130\u00e7eride Ho Chi Minh\u2019in bak\u0131\u015flar\u0131 e\u015fli\u011finde, insan\u0131n bir kartpostal g\u00f6nderesi geliyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Postanenin yan\u0131ndaki <strong>Kitap Soka\u011f\u0131 (\u0110\u01b0\u1eddng S\u00e1ch)<\/strong> ise \u015fehrin g\u00fcr\u00fclt\u00fcs\u00fcnden ka\u00e7mak i\u00e7in ideal. Yayalara a\u00e7\u0131k bu k\u0131sa sokakta kitap stantlar\u0131, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kafeler ve sakin bir tempo var.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Saygon, h\u0131zla de\u011fi\u015firken bile ge\u00e7mi\u015fini unutmayan bir \u015fehir. Her k\u00f6\u015fesinde hem tarih hem de bug\u00fcn\u00fcn canl\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 hissediliyor; belki de onu bu kadar \u00e7ekici yapan \u015fey tam olarak bu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Mekong Deltas\u0131<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Thoi Son Adas\u0131<\/strong>, Vietnam\u2019\u0131n g\u00fcneyinde, Mekong Deltas\u0131\u2019nda My Tho yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda sakl\u0131 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir cennet. Buras\u0131 sadece do\u011fas\u0131yla de\u011fil, geleneksel ya\u015fam\u0131n h\u00e2l\u00e2 t\u00fcm sadeli\u011fiyle s\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc bir yer olmas\u0131yla da \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Adaya yakla\u015f\u0131rken yemye\u015fil bitki \u00f6rt\u00fcs\u00fc ve labirent gibi uzanan su yollar\u0131 hemen dikkat \u00e7ekiyor. Meyve bah\u00e7eleri her yerde: rambutan, mango, longan, ejder meyvesi\u2026 Daldan kopar\u0131lan taze meyveler, tropik havan\u0131n i\u00e7inde k\u0131sa bir mutluluk an\u0131 gibi. Su bol, toprak bereketli, hayat yava\u015f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Thoi Son ayn\u0131 zamanda geleneksel \u00fcretimin kalbi. Hindistan cevizi \u015fekeri, bal ve pirin\u00e7 k\u00e2\u011f\u0131d\u0131 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck at\u00f6lyelerde, tamamen el eme\u011fiyle haz\u0131rlan\u0131yor. Kaynayan kazanlardan y\u00fckselen tatl\u0131 kokular adan\u0131n ruhuna kar\u0131\u015f\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bir k\u00f6\u015fede ise <strong>Don Ca Tai Tu<\/strong> melodileri duyuluyor. G\u00fcney Vietnam\u2019a \u00f6zg\u00fc bu h\u00fcz\u00fcnl\u00fc halk m\u00fczi\u011fi, ku\u015f sesleri ve suyun ak\u0131\u015f\u0131yla birle\u015fince zaman neredeyse duruyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ho Chi Minh City\u2019den yakla\u015f\u0131k 70 kilometre uzakl\u0131ktaki My Tho\u2019dan tekneyle ula\u015f\u0131lan ada, Mekong\u2019un sar\u0131 sular\u0131nda ilerlerken bir film sahnesi gibi a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131yor: palmiye g\u00f6lgeleri, kayan sandallar, nehir k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda oynayan \u00e7ocuklar\u2026 Thoi Son, Mekong\u2019un dingin y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6rmek isteyenler i\u00e7in tam bir ka\u00e7\u0131\u015f noktas\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--nextpage-->\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Vietnam Sava\u015f\u0131: K\u0131sa Bir Bak\u0131\u015f<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Vietnam Sava\u015f\u0131<\/strong> \u2014 ya da di\u011fer ad\u0131yla <strong>\u0130kinci \u00c7inhindi Sava\u015f\u0131<\/strong> \u2014 1955\u2019ten 1975\u2019e kadar s\u00fcren, hem Vietnam\u2019\u0131 hem de d\u00fcnyay\u0131 derinden etkileyen y\u0131k\u0131c\u0131 bir \u00e7at\u0131\u015fmayd\u0131. Bir yanda kom\u00fcnist Kuzey Vietnam, di\u011fer yanda ABD ve m\u00fcttefiklerinin destekledi\u011fi G\u00fcney Vietnam vard\u0131. Bu sava\u015f, So\u011fuk Sava\u015f\u2019\u0131n kom\u00fcnizm\u2013kapitalizm geriliminin en sert sahnelerinden biriydi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00c7at\u0131\u015fman\u0131n k\u00f6kleri, Vietnam\u2019\u0131n Frans\u0131z s\u00f6m\u00fcrgesinden kurtulma m\u00fccadelesine dayan\u0131yor. Ho Chi Minh\u2019in 1945\u2019te ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ilan etmesiyle ba\u015flayan s\u00fcre\u00e7, 1954\u2019te Frans\u0131zlar\u0131n yenilgisiyle sonu\u00e7land\u0131. Cenevre Anla\u015fmalar\u0131\u2019yla \u00fclke ge\u00e7ici olarak ikiye b\u00f6l\u00fcnd\u00fc: Kuzey kom\u00fcnistlerin, G\u00fcney ise Bat\u0131 yanl\u0131s\u0131 bir y\u00f6netimin kontrol\u00fcne ge\u00e7ti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bu b\u00f6l\u00fcnme uzun s\u00fcrmedi. G\u00fcney\u2019deki Viet Kong gerillalar\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015flatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 isyan, sava\u015f\u0131 t\u0131rmand\u0131rd\u0131. ABD, kom\u00fcnizmin yay\u0131lmas\u0131n\u0131 engellemek i\u00e7in giderek daha fazla m\u00fcdahil oldu. 1965\u2019ten itibaren Amerikan askerleri sahadayd\u0131 ve sava\u015f t\u00fcm \u015fiddetiyle devam etti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">1968\u2019deki <strong>Tet Sald\u0131r\u0131s\u0131<\/strong>, askeri olarak ba\u015far\u0131s\u0131z olsa da Amerikan kamuoyunda sava\u015f\u0131n seyrini de\u011fi\u015ftirdi. Tepkiler b\u00fcy\u00fcd\u00fc, bar\u0131\u015f g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fmeleri ba\u015flad\u0131. 1973\u2019te ABD birlikleri Vietnam\u2019dan \u00e7ekildi. Ancak \u00e7at\u0131\u015fmalar sona ermedi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Nisan 1975\u2019te Kuzey Vietnam\u2019\u0131n Saygon\u2019u ele ge\u00e7irmesiyle sava\u015f fiilen bitti. \u00dclke kom\u00fcnist y\u00f6netim alt\u0131nda birle\u015fti, Saygon\u2019un ad\u0131 <strong>Ho Chi Minh City<\/strong> oldu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vietnam Sava\u015f\u0131, milyonlarca insan\u0131n hayat\u0131n\u0131 kaybetti\u011fi b\u00fcy\u00fck bir insani felaketti. Ard\u0131nda yaln\u0131zca y\u0131k\u0131m de\u011fil, h\u00e2l\u00e2 hissedilen derin toplumsal ve politik izler b\u0131rakt\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Sava\u015f\u0131n kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dar ve karanl\u0131k bir t\u00fcnelin \u00f6n\u00fcnde duruyorum. Nefesim s\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131yor. \u0130\u00e7eri girmem i\u00e7in bekleyen bir grup var ama yapam\u0131yorum. O an anl\u0131yorum: hi\u00e7bir merak, hi\u00e7bir cesaret beni bu t\u00fcnele sokamaz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Buras\u0131, Viet Kong gerillalar\u0131n\u0131n efsanevi s\u0131\u011f\u0131na\u011f\u0131 <strong>Cu Chi T\u00fcnelleri<\/strong>. Topra\u011f\u0131n alt\u0131na gizlenmi\u015f, sessiz ama direni\u015f dolu bir d\u00fcnya. 1960\u2019larda, \u00e7o\u011fu \u00e7\u0131plak ellerle kaz\u0131lan bu t\u00fcneller; bar\u0131nmak, saklanmak ve sald\u0131r\u0131 planlamak i\u00e7in kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Kilometrelerce uzanan bu yeralt\u0131 a\u011f\u0131, Amerikan \u00fcslerinin hemen alt\u0131nda, fark edilmeden ya\u015famaya devam etmi\u015f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Yakla\u015f\u0131k <strong>200 kilometrelik<\/strong> bu labirent, binlerce gizli giri\u015fle \u00f6r\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. O kadar iyi kamufle edilmi\u015f ki, d\u00fc\u015fman \u00e7o\u011fu zaman varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bile fark edememi\u015f. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck sergi alan\u0131nda sergilenen bambu \u00e7ivili tuzaklar ise \u00fcrk\u00fct\u00fcc\u00fc. Rehberin dedi\u011fi gibi, ama\u00e7 sadece \u00f6ld\u00fcrmek de\u011fil, korku yaratmakm\u0131\u015f. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc korku, sava\u015f\u0131n en g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc silah\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Toprak kokusu a\u011f\u0131r, hava nemli. Bug\u00fcn sava\u015f yok ama ge\u00e7mi\u015f h\u00e2l\u00e2 topra\u011f\u0131n alt\u0131nda nefes al\u0131yor. Cu Chi, Ho Chi Minh City\u2019nin yakla\u015f\u0131k bir saat d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda yer al\u0131yor ve art\u0131k \u00fclkenin en \u00e7ok ziyaret edilen tarihi duraklar\u0131ndan biri. T\u00fcnellere girmek cesaret istiyor; d\u0131\u015far\u0131dan bakmak bile yeterince sars\u0131c\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vietnam\u2019da sava\u015f yaln\u0131zca tarih kitaplar\u0131nda kalmam\u0131\u015f. Haf\u0131zalarda, sokaklarda, topra\u011f\u0131n derinliklerinde h\u00e2l\u00e2 hissediliyor. Bunun en \u00e7arp\u0131c\u0131 \u00f6rneklerinden biri de <strong>Sava\u015f Kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 M\u00fczesi<\/strong>. M\u00fcze, \u201cAmerikan Sava\u015f\u0131\u201dn\u0131 Vietnaml\u0131lar\u0131n g\u00f6z\u00fcnden anlat\u0131yor. Foto\u011fraflar, belgeler ve objeler aras\u0131nda Nick Ut\u2019un, napalm sald\u0131r\u0131s\u0131ndan ka\u00e7an k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck k\u0131z\u0131 g\u00f6steren o unutulmaz kare de var. Tek bir foto\u011fraf, sava\u015f\u0131n b\u00fct\u00fcn deh\u015fetini anlatmaya yetiyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Buras\u0131 kolay bir m\u00fcze de\u011fil. Ama g\u00f6r\u00fclmesi gerekiyor. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc sava\u015f\u0131n say\u0131dan, tarihten ibaret olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131; her rakam\u0131n bir hayat oldu\u011funu burada anl\u0131yorsunuz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sava\u015f, yaln\u0131zca insanlar\u0131 de\u011fil, do\u011fay\u0131 da yaralam\u0131\u015f. Bombalanan tap\u0131naklar yeniden in\u015fa edilmi\u015f, yak\u0131lan ormanlar zamanla tekrar ye\u015fermi\u015f. Do\u011fa, insan\u0131n y\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 sessizce onarm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vietnam i\u00e7in bu sava\u015f, tarihlerindeki ilk de\u011fil. Bu y\u00fczden burada \u201cVietnam Sava\u015f\u0131\u201d denmiyor; sadece <strong>Amerikan Sava\u015f\u0131<\/strong>. Y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca say\u0131s\u0131z \u00e7at\u0131\u015fmadan ge\u00e7en bu \u00fclke, her seferinde aya\u011fa kalkmay\u0131 ba\u015farm\u0131\u015f. Belki de Vietnam\u2019\u0131n ruhunda hissedilen o g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc diren\u00e7 ve umut, tam olarak buradan geliyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Devrimci lider<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ho Chi Minh\u2019in Vietnam\u2019da h\u00e2l\u00e2 neden bu kadar sayg\u0131 g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc anlamak zor de\u011fil. \u00dclkede ge\u00e7irdi\u011finiz k\u0131sa bir s\u00fcre bile bunu hissetmeye yetiyor. Devrimci bir lider ve modern Vietnam\u2019\u0131n kurucusu olarak g\u00f6r\u00fclen Ho Chi Minh, \u00fclkeyi s\u00f6m\u00fcrge y\u00f6netiminden kurtaran m\u00fccadelenin simgesi. Onun \u00f6nderli\u011finde 1954\u2019te Frans\u0131zlar\u0131n yenilmesi, Vietnam tarihinin y\u00f6n\u00fcn\u00fc de\u011fi\u015ftirdi ve sonraki y\u0131llarda ya\u015fanacak Amerikan Sava\u015f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n da zeminini haz\u0131rlad\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ho Chi Minh\u2019in hayali yaln\u0131zca sava\u015f kazanmak de\u011fildi. Sosyalist bir cumhuriyet kurmay\u0131, yoksullu\u011fu azaltmay\u0131 ve e\u011fitimi yayg\u0131nla\u015ft\u0131rmay\u0131 hedefliyordu. Miras\u0131 d\u0131\u015far\u0131dan bak\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda tart\u0131\u015fmal\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnebilir ama Vietnam halk\u0131 i\u00e7in o, h\u00e2l\u00e2 sayg\u0131yla an\u0131lan, neredeyse efsanevi bir fig\u00fcr.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Be\u015f g\u00fcnl\u00fck Ho Chi Minh City ke\u015ffinin ard\u0131ndan rotam\u0131z bu kez <strong>Hanoi<\/strong>. Ho Chi Minh\u2019in devrimi ba\u015flatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve izlerini b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131 topraklarda, Vietnam hik\u00e2yesi yeni bir sayfayla devam ediyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--nextpage-->\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Kuzeyin y\u0131ld\u0131z\u0131 Hanoi<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vietnam\u2019\u0131 g\u00fcneyden kuzeye gezerken her \u015fehir bize ba\u015fka bir hik\u00e2ye anlatt\u0131. Ama <strong>Hanoi\u2019ye vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda<\/strong>, art\u0131k o hik\u00e2yenin kalbine geldi\u011fimizi hissettik. Buras\u0131 sadece bir ba\u015fkent de\u011fil; Vietnam\u2019\u0131 anlamaya ba\u015flamak i\u00e7in en do\u011fru yer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hanoi, Saygon\u2019dan \u00e7ok farkl\u0131. Saygon daha ticari ve h\u0131zl\u0131yken, Hanoi ge\u00e7mi\u015fiyle ya\u015fayan bir \u015fehir. Frans\u0131z kolonyal binalar\u0131, dar sokaklar\u0131 ve \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcl\u00fc kaosu ile daha a\u011f\u0131rba\u015fl\u0131 bir ritmi var. Sokaklarda konik \u015fapkalar\u0131yla y\u00fcr\u00fcyen insanlar, motosikletlerin hi\u00e7 dinmeyen ak\u0131\u015f\u0131 ve g\u00fcndelik hayat\u0131n kald\u0131r\u0131mlara ta\u015fm\u0131\u015f hali \u015fehrin ruhunu ele veriyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Eski Mahalle (Old Quarter)<\/strong>, Hanoi\u2019nin \u00f6z\u00fc. Kaybolman\u0131n neredeyse \u015fart oldu\u011fu bu sokaklarda her ad\u0131m yeni bir koku, renk ve ses demek. Tarih boyunca sat\u0131lan \u00fcr\u00fcnlere g\u00f6re adland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f sokaklar h\u00e2l\u00e2 ayn\u0131 gelene\u011fi s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Ak\u015fam olunca k\u0131zarm\u0131\u015f etlerin, taze otlar\u0131n ve baharatlar\u0131n kokusu havaya kar\u0131\u015f\u0131yor; \u015fehir bir anda yeniden canlan\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Burada y\u00fcr\u00fcmek kolay de\u011fil. Kald\u0131r\u0131mlar scooterlarla, sokak sat\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131yla, bazen tavuklarla dolu. Kar\u015f\u0131dan kar\u015f\u0131ya ge\u00e7mek ise ba\u015fl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131na bir deneyim. Kural basit: ad\u0131m at ve durma. Motosikletler sizi bir \u015fekilde es ge\u00e7iyor. Kaosun gizli bir d\u00fczeni var.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hanoi\u2019yi anlaman\u0131n en iyi yolu haritay\u0131 b\u0131rakmak. Rastgele sokaklara sap\u0131yor, kokular\u0131n pe\u015finden gidiyoruz. Bir k\u00f6\u015fede sokak lezzetleri, di\u011ferinde y\u00fczy\u0131ll\u0131k bir pagoda \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za. Zaman s\u00fcrekli de\u011fi\u015fiyor; bazen ge\u00e7mi\u015fin i\u00e7indeyiz, bazen bug\u00fcn\u00fcn tam ortas\u0131nda.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ak\u015fam\u00fcst\u00fc plastik taburelere oturup <strong>Bia H\u01a1i<\/strong> i\u00e7iyoruz. Motor sesleri, kahkahalar ve m\u00fczik birbirine kar\u0131\u015f\u0131yor. Saygon\u2019un kaosu art\u0131k bizi yormuyor; ona al\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f\u0131z.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hanoi\u2019de sokak yemeklerinden ka\u00e7mak zaten m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. <strong>Pho<\/strong>, burada sadece bir yemek de\u011fil, bir gelenek. Kahve merakl\u0131lar\u0131 i\u00e7in <strong>yumurtal\u0131 kahve (c\u00e0 ph\u00ea tr\u1ee9ng)<\/strong> mutlaka denenmeli. Yan\u0131na ucuz, hafif bir Bia H\u01a1i ekleyin; Hanoi mutfa\u011f\u0131 payla\u015farak ya\u015fan\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Geceleri <strong>Beer Corner<\/strong>, \u015fehrin enerjisini hissetmek i\u00e7in ideal. Plastik sandalyede oturup insanlar\u0131 izlemek burada bir al\u0131\u015fkanl\u0131k de\u011fil, bir rit\u00fcel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u015eehrin temposundan ka\u00e7mak isteyenler i\u00e7in <strong>Hoan Kiem G\u00f6l\u00fc<\/strong>, Hanoi\u2019nin kalbi. Sabah Tai Chi yapanlar, y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe \u00e7\u0131kanlar, g\u00f6l\u00fcn yans\u0131mas\u0131n\u0131 izleyenler\u2026 G\u00f6l, \u015fehrin karma\u015fas\u0131na k\u0131sa bir mola veriyor. Ortas\u0131ndaki Kaplumba\u011fa Kulesi ve Ngoc Son Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 ise Hanoi\u2019nin efsanelerle \u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fc haf\u0131zas\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hanoi, kaosla huzurun ayn\u0131 anda var olabildi\u011fi nadir \u015fehirlerden biri. Bu \u015fehri sevin ya da ondan ka\u00e7mak isteyin; fark etmiyor. <strong>Hanoi ile ilk kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fma<\/strong>, insan\u0131n akl\u0131ndan kolay kolay \u00e7\u0131km\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--nextpage-->\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Edebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vietnam\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fkenti <strong>Hanoi<\/strong>, ge\u00e7mi\u015fle bug\u00fcn\u00fcn i\u00e7 i\u00e7e ge\u00e7ti\u011fi bir \u015fehir. G\u00fcr\u00fclt\u00fcl\u00fc sokaklar\u0131n, kalabal\u0131k pazarlar\u0131n ve motosiklet selinin alt\u0131nda derin bir tarih yat\u0131yor. Her k\u00f6\u015fe ba\u015f\u0131, her ta\u015f par\u00e7as\u0131 ba\u015fka bir hik\u00e2ye f\u0131s\u0131ld\u0131yor. Efsaneler, y\u00fczy\u0131llar \u00f6ncesinden bug\u00fcne h\u00e2l\u00e2 canl\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hanoi, zamanda yolculuk yap\u0131yormu\u015f hissi veren bir sahne gibi. Modern binalar\u0131n g\u00f6lgesinde eski masallar dola\u015f\u0131yor. \u015eehir de\u011fi\u015fiyor ama o bilge, biraz h\u00fcz\u00fcnl\u00fc ruhunu hi\u00e7 kaybetmiyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bu ruhu en iyi hissettiren yerlerden biri <strong>Edebiyat Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131 (Van Mieu)<\/strong>. 1070 y\u0131l\u0131nda Konf\u00fc\u00e7y\u00fcs\u2019\u00fcn \u00f6\u011fretilerine adanarak in\u015fa edilen bu alan, Vietnam\u2019\u0131n ilk \u00fcniversitesi kabul ediliyor. Be\u015f avluya yay\u0131lan tap\u0131nakta, sessizlik ve ye\u015fil sizi ad\u0131m ad\u0131m \u015fehirden kopar\u0131yor. Kaplumba\u011fa kaideleri \u00fczerindeki bilge isimler, sabr\u0131n ve bilginin kal\u0131c\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor. O g\u00fcn mezuniyet t\u00f6renleri vard\u0131; geleneksel k\u0131yafetleriyle poz veren gen\u00e7ler, ge\u00e7mi\u015fin bilgeli\u011fiyle bug\u00fcn\u00fcn umudunu ayn\u0131 karede bulu\u015fturuyordu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vietnam\u2019\u0131n k\u00fclt\u00fcrel \u00e7e\u015fitlili\u011fini anlamak i\u00e7in <strong>Vietnam Etnoloji M\u00fczesi<\/strong> \u00f6nemli bir durak. \u00dclkenin 54 etnik grubuna ait ya\u015fam bi\u00e7imleri, inan\u00e7lar ve mimari \u00f6rnekler burada bir araya geliyor. A\u00e7\u0131k hava b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcndeki geleneksel evler, yaln\u0131zca yap\u0131 de\u011fil, ya\u015fayan bir k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn izleri gibi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hanoi\u2019nin karanl\u0131k tarihine a\u00e7\u0131lan kap\u0131lardan biri ise <strong>Hoa Lo Hapishanesi<\/strong>. Frans\u0131z s\u00f6m\u00fcrge d\u00f6neminde Vietnaml\u0131 direni\u015f\u00e7ilerin, Vietnam Sava\u015f\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda ise Amerikal\u0131 esirlerin tutuldu\u011fu bu yer, \u201cHanoi Hilton\u201d ad\u0131yla biliniyor. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck m\u00fcze alan\u0131nda sergilenen h\u00fccreler, belgeler ve foto\u011fraflar, \u015fehrin modern y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fcn ard\u0131ndaki ac\u0131 ge\u00e7mi\u015fi hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u015eehrin en g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc simgelerinden biri de <strong>Ho Chi Minh Mozolesi<\/strong>. Sessizlik i\u00e7inde ilerleyen ziyaret\u00e7iler, cam bir tabutun i\u00e7inde yatan Ho Chi Minh\u2019in \u00f6n\u00fcnden ge\u00e7iyor. Hemen yan\u0131ndaki <strong>Ba\u015fkanl\u0131k Saray\u0131<\/strong> ve onun l\u00fcks\u00fc reddedip ya\u015famay\u0131 se\u00e7ti\u011fi m\u00fctevaz\u0131 ah\u015fap ev, liderin sade ya\u015fam anlay\u0131\u015f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6zler \u00f6n\u00fcne seriyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Tarihin katmanlar\u0131n\u0131 en net hissetti\u011finiz yerlerden biri ise <strong>Thang Long \u0130mparatorluk Kalesi<\/strong>. Y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca hanedanlara, s\u00f6m\u00fcrge y\u00f6netimine ve sava\u015f y\u0131llar\u0131na tan\u0131kl\u0131k etmi\u015f bu UNESCO miras\u0131 alan, Hanoi\u2019nin siyasi haf\u0131zas\u0131 gibi. Sessiz ta\u015f duvarlar\u0131n aras\u0131nda dola\u015f\u0131rken ge\u00e7mi\u015f h\u00e2l\u00e2 nefes al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Kaleyi gezerken bir anda kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za gelen geleneksel k\u0131yafetli gen\u00e7ler, buray\u0131 adeta bir film setine \u00e7evirmi\u015fti. Tarihin a\u011f\u0131r sessizli\u011fi, gen\u00e7li\u011fin co\u015fkusuyla birle\u015fiyordu. O an \u015funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fck: <strong>Vietnam, ge\u00e7mi\u015fiyle ba\u011f\u0131n\u0131 koparmadan gelece\u011fe y\u00fcr\u00fcmeyi ger\u00e7ekten \u00e7ok iyi biliyor.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--nextpage-->\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Tren \u00e7\u0131lg\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dar bir sokakta y\u00fcr\u00fcrken birden siren sesi y\u00fckseldi. Zaten canl\u0131 olan atmosfer, bir anda heyecanl\u0131 bir bekleyi\u015fe d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc. Kafe sahipleri m\u00fc\u015fterilerine sesleniyor, sandalyeleri aceleyle i\u00e7eri ta\u015f\u0131yordu. \u0130nsanlar ayaklar\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ekmi\u015f, hayvanlar ve ku\u015flar k\u00f6\u015felere s\u0131\u011f\u0131nm\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">K\u0131sa s\u00fcre sonra trenin \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnd\u00fc. Yakla\u015ft\u0131k\u00e7a topra\u011f\u0131n titremesi bedenlerimize ge\u00e7ti. Sokaktaki enerji, demir tekerleklerin sesiyle birlikte somutla\u015ft\u0131; adeta havada k\u0131v\u0131lc\u0131mlar u\u00e7u\u015fuyordu. Turistler kameralar\u0131n\u0131 haz\u0131rlad\u0131, foto\u011fraf\u00e7\u0131lar kadrajlar\u0131n\u0131 ayarlad\u0131. Boynunda lenslerle donanm\u0131\u015f biri \u00f6ne e\u011filip nefesini tuttu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Tren o darac\u0131k soka\u011f\u0131n kalbinden ge\u00e7erken duvarlardan yank\u0131lanan ses, \u015fehrin ritmine kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131. O birka\u00e7 saniyede zaman b\u00fck\u00fcld\u00fc; ge\u00e7mi\u015fle bug\u00fcn, insanla makine, s\u0131radanl\u0131kla mucize birbirine dokundu. Tren uzakla\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131nda kalan sessizlikte herkesin y\u00fcz\u00fcnde ayn\u0131 ifade vard\u0131: hayranl\u0131k, biraz da inanamay\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Buras\u0131 Hanoi\u2019nin \u00fcnl\u00fc Tren Soka\u011f\u0131. \u015eehrin temposu burada ikiye katlan\u0131yor. G\u00fcn\u00fcn geri kalan\u0131nda bu dar ray aral\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir ar\u0131 kovan\u0131n\u0131 and\u0131r\u0131yor; kafe sahipleri, turistler ve foto\u011fraf\u00e7\u0131lar ayn\u0131 mek\u00e2nda i\u00e7 i\u00e7e ya\u015f\u0131yor. Art\u0131k trenin ge\u00e7i\u015fi bir ula\u015f\u0131m an\u0131 de\u011fil, neredeyse bir t\u00f6ren.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Raylarla kafeler aras\u0131nda yaln\u0131zca birka\u00e7 santim var. \u0130nsanlar o anda trene en yak\u0131n noktada durman\u0131n, ge\u00e7i\u015f r\u00fczg\u00e2r\u0131n\u0131 hissetmenin keyfini \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131yor. Bir zamanlar s\u0131radan bir mahalle olan bu sokak, turist ilgisiyle tamamen de\u011fi\u015fmi\u015f; duvarlar boyanm\u0131\u015f, vitrinler \u0131\u015f\u0131ld\u0131yor, her k\u00f6\u015fe bir kafe ya da hat\u0131ra d\u00fckk\u00e2n\u0131na d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f. Bu de\u011fi\u015fim fiyatlara da yans\u0131m\u0131\u015f elbette.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Burada treni izlemenin bile bir kural\u0131 var: Ray kenar\u0131ndaki sandalyelere oturmak i\u00e7in bir kahve ya da i\u00e7ecek sipari\u015f etmek gerekiyor. Yani bir nevi \u201cbilet\u201d bu. 2019\u2019da g\u00fcvenlik nedeniyle kapat\u0131lan sokak, yeni kurallarla yeniden a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Art\u0131k turistlerin g\u00fcvenli\u011fi, kafe sahiplerinin sorumlulu\u011funda. Siren sesi duyuldu\u011funda herkes yerini almak zorunda, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc o birka\u00e7 saniyelik heyecanda hayatla mesafe ger\u00e7ekten birka\u00e7 santimetreye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Hanoi\u2019de Vietnaml\u0131 gibi yemek<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u015eehrin ruhunu anlamak istiyorsan\u0131z, Hanoi\u2019de bir turist gibi de\u011fil, bir yerlisi gibi ya\u015fay\u0131n. K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck plastik sandalyelere oturun, pirin\u00e7li dondurmalar yiyin, fincan\u0131n\u0131zdan eksik etmeden yumurtal\u0131 kahve i\u00e7in. Pazarlar\u0131n dar koridorlar\u0131nda kaybolun; sokak tezg\u00e2hlar\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde durun, yeni tatlar ke\u015ffedin. Her pazarl\u0131kta, her kahkahada k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn kendisiyle tan\u0131\u015f\u0131rs\u0131n\u0131z.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hanoi\u2019de yemek yemek ba\u015fl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131na bir deneyim. \u015eehirdeki pazarlar ve sokak sat\u0131c\u0131lar\u0131 ke\u015ffedilmeyi bekleyen lezzet hazineleri gibi. Tatt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z yemekler yo\u011fun, dengeli ve karakterliydi. S\u0131radan bir lokantada i\u00e7ti\u011fimiz&nbsp;<strong>pho<\/strong>&nbsp;h\u00e2l\u00e2 haf\u0131zam\u0131zda: tapyoka suyunun s\u0131cak buhar\u0131, s\u0131\u011f\u0131r etinin derin aromas\u0131 ve taze otlar\u0131n dengesiyle unutulmaz bir tat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u00dcnl\u00fc \u015fef Anthony Bourdain\u2019in s\u00f6zleri bu mutfa\u011f\u0131 m\u00fckemmel anlat\u0131yor: Vietnam yeme\u011fi, duyulara sadece sald\u0131rmaz; onlar\u0131 zarafetle me\u015fgul eder. Bir kase&nbsp;<strong>pho<\/strong>&nbsp;ya da bir tabak&nbsp;<strong>Ch\u1ea3 C\u00e1 L\u00e3 V\u1ecdng<\/strong>&nbsp;yedi\u011finizde onun ne demek istedi\u011fini hemen anlars\u0131n\u0131z. Her lokmada sadece tat de\u011fil, koku, renk ve duygu da vard\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Kahve i\u00e7inde yumurta m\u0131?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vietnam kahvesi 19. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Frans\u0131zlar taraf\u0131ndan tan\u0131t\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, ama bug\u00fcn \u00fclkenin karakteristik i\u00e7ece\u011fine d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f. Filtreyle demlenen kahveler, yo\u011funla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f s\u00fctle haz\u0131rlan\u0131yor ve so\u011fuk i\u00e7ildi\u011finde ferahlat\u0131c\u0131 bir tat b\u0131rak\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ama Hanoi\u2019nin as\u0131l efsanesi&nbsp;<strong>yumurtal\u0131 kahve<\/strong>&nbsp;\u2014&nbsp;<em>C\u00e0 ph\u00ea tr\u1ee9ng<\/em>. 1940\u2019larda s\u00fct k\u0131tl\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda Nguyen Van Giang taraf\u0131ndan yarat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Yumurta sar\u0131s\u0131 ve yo\u011funla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f s\u00fct, krema gibi \u00e7\u0131rp\u0131l\u0131p sade kahvenin \u00fczerine d\u00f6k\u00fcl\u00fcyor. Sonu\u00e7: muhallebi k\u0131vam\u0131nda kal\u0131n, tatl\u0131 ve kremams\u0131 bir kahve.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u015eehrin bir\u00e7ok kafesi h\u00e2l\u00e2 bu tarifi ya\u015fat\u0131yor. Ancak Hanoi\u2019de kahve sadece bir i\u00e7ecek de\u011fil; bir deneyim. Kolonyal binalar aras\u0131na gizlenmi\u015f kafelerde otururken sokaklardan y\u00fckselen kahve kokusu, \u015fehrin temposuyla kar\u0131\u015f\u0131yor. Her yudumda kahveyi de\u011fil, Hanoi\u2019nin ruhunu i\u00e7iyorsunuz sanki.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--nextpage-->\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Hanoi&#8217;ye ka\u00e7 g\u00fcn yeterli?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">D\u00fcnyadaki \u00e7o\u011fu \u015fehir gibi Hanoi\u2019de de \u00fc\u00e7 g\u00fcnde \u201cher \u015feyi g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f\u201d gibi hissedebilirsiniz. An\u0131tlar\u0131 gezer, lezzetli yemeklerin tad\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131r, birka\u00e7 foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekip s\u0131radaki dura\u011fa ge\u00e7ersiniz. Ama Hanoi b\u00f6yle ke\u015ffedilecek bir \u015fehir de\u011fil. Bu \u015fehir, yava\u015f ad\u0131mlarla gezilmeyi hak ediyor. En az be\u015f g\u00fcn ay\u0131r\u0131n; sokaklar\u0131n ritmini, pazarlar\u0131n karma\u015fas\u0131n\u0131 ve arka sokaklardaki gizli k\u00f6\u015feleri hissetmek i\u00e7in zaman tan\u0131y\u0131n kendinize.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">T\u0131pk\u0131 g\u00fcneydeki Ho Chi Minh City gibi, Hanoi de \u00fclkenin en b\u00fcy\u00fcleyici do\u011fal noktalar\u0131na \u2014 Ha Long K\u00f6rfezi, Sa Pa\u2019n\u0131n da\u011flar\u0131 ve Ninh Binh\u2019in b\u00fcy\u00fcl\u00fc manzaralar\u0131na \u2014 a\u00e7\u0131lan bir kap\u0131. Bu y\u00fczden \u015fehri sadece bir durak de\u011fil, ke\u015ffin kendisi olarak d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmek en do\u011frusu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bir\u00e7ok ki\u015fi Vietnam\u2019\u0131 Tayland veya Malezya gibi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyor ama co\u011frafya ve iklim de\u011fi\u015fken. \u00dclke kuzeyden g\u00fcneye uzand\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in hava ko\u015fullar\u0131 ciddi bi\u00e7imde farkl\u0131l\u0131k g\u00f6sterebiliyor. \u00d6rne\u011fin ocakta Ho Chi Minh s\u0131cakken, Hanoi\u2019de kazak giyiyorsunuz. En iyi d\u00f6nem sonbahar aylar\u0131: nem azal\u0131yor, g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fc a\u00e7\u0131k, sokaklar foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmek i\u00e7in \u0131\u015f\u0131l \u0131\u015f\u0131l. Yaz (May\u0131s-A\u011fustos) ise s\u0131cak, nemli ve hareketli \u2014 tam anlam\u0131yla tropik bir deneyim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u015eehir i\u00e7inde ula\u015f\u0131m i\u00e7in&nbsp;<strong>Grab<\/strong>&nbsp;uygulamas\u0131 tam bir kurtar\u0131c\u0131. Uygun fiyatl\u0131, pratik ve genelde g\u00fcvenli. Taksi aramak yerine telefonunuzla birka\u00e7 dokunu\u015fla istedi\u011finiz yere ula\u015fabiliyorsunuz. Bu, Hanoi\u2019nin karma\u015f\u0131k trafi\u011finde ger\u00e7ek bir kolayl\u0131k.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Hanoi mi, Ho Chi Minh mi?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vietnam\u2019a gidiyorsan\u0131z, b\u00fcy\u00fck olas\u0131l\u0131kla bu soruyu kendinize soracaks\u0131n\u0131z. Kuzeyde tarihi bir ba\u015fkent: Hanoi. G\u00fcneyde enerjik bir metropol: Ho Chi Minh City. Farkl\u0131 ama birbirini tamamlayan iki ruh.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hanoi, yakla\u015f\u0131k&nbsp;<strong>4.000 y\u0131ll\u0131k<\/strong>&nbsp;ge\u00e7mi\u015fiyle Vietnam\u2019\u0131n k\u00fclt\u00fcrel kalbi. Tarih, mimari ve gelenek burada ya\u015fam\u0131n her detay\u0131nda hissediliyor. Ho Chi Minh City ise gen\u00e7, dinamik ve modern \u2014 yakla\u015f\u0131k&nbsp;<strong>300 ya\u015f\u0131nda<\/strong>&nbsp;bir \u015fehir ama enerjisiyle ba\u015f d\u00f6nd\u00fcr\u00fcc\u00fc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hava konusunda tercihiniz \u00f6nemli: y\u0131l boyunca s\u0131cak bir \u015fehir istiyorsan\u0131z Ho Chi Minh tam size g\u00f6re. Ama serin sonbahar r\u00fczg\u00e2rlar\u0131n\u0131, g\u00f6lgede kahve i\u00e7meyi ve tarihi dokuyu seviyorsan\u0131z, Hanoi\u2019nin yeri ba\u015fka.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hanoi\u2019de ke\u015ffedilecek d\u00f6rt ana tema var:&nbsp;<strong>tarih, k\u00fclt\u00fcr, yemek ve e\u011flence<\/strong>. Kuzeyde ya\u015fayanlar genellikle daha ciddi ve \u00e7al\u0131\u015fkan g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcr; g\u00fcneydekiler ise rahat, e\u011flenceli ve ne\u015feli. Ama nerede olursan\u0131z olun, Vietnaml\u0131lar\u0131n samimiyetine, misafirperverli\u011fine ve hayata kar\u015f\u0131 keyifli tutumuna hayran kalmamak kolay de\u011fil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sonu\u00e7ta ister Hanoi\u2019nin dar sokaklar\u0131nda y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fcn, ister Ho Chi Minh\u2019in g\u00f6kdelenleri aras\u0131nda kaybolun; Vietnam, kaosu bile sevdiren bir \u00fclke. Her k\u00f6\u015fesi ayr\u0131 bir hik\u00e2ye bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131yor \u2014 yeter ki yava\u015flay\u0131p dinlemeye vakit ay\u0131r\u0131n.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--nextpage-->\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Ninh Binh<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bu b\u00f6l\u00fcm Vietnam\u2019\u0131n do\u011fa harikalar\u0131n\u0131 etkileyici bi\u00e7imde anlat\u0131yor, ama bilgi yo\u011funlu\u011fu y\u00fcksek oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in blog tarz\u0131nda biraz bo\u011fucu gelebilir. A\u015fa\u011f\u0131da, anlat\u0131m\u0131 koruyarak dili ak\u0131c\u0131, samimi ve seyahat g\u00fcnl\u00fc\u011f\u00fc tonuna uyarlad\u0131m. Paragraflar nefes alan bir ritimde ilerliyor; okuyucuya hem bilgi hem hayal kurduracak bir ak\u0131\u015f sa\u011fl\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hanoi sadece bir \u015fehir de\u011fil; ayn\u0131 zamanda Vietnam\u2019\u0131n nefes kesen do\u011fas\u0131na a\u00e7\u0131lan kap\u0131s\u0131. Ha Long K\u00f6rfezi ve Ninh Binh, kire\u00e7ta\u015f\u0131 da\u011flar\u0131 ve sisli vadileriyle \u00fclkenin en b\u00fcy\u00fcleyici manzaralar\u0131n\u0131 sunuyor. Bu b\u00f6lgelerde gezerken, do\u011fan\u0131n nas\u0131l hem sakin hem de dramatik olabilece\u011fine tan\u0131k oluyorsunuz.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Ninh Binh: Kuru Halong K\u00f6rfezi<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hanoi\u2019den yakla\u015f\u0131k iki saat uzakl\u0131ktaki Ninh Binh, \u201cKuru Halong K\u00f6rfezi\u201d olarak biliniyor. Hem k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir kasaba hem de yemye\u015fil vadiler ve tarihi tap\u0131naklarla \u00e7evrili bir il. Buradaki g\u00fcnl\u00fck turlar genellikle&nbsp;<strong>Tam Coc<\/strong>&nbsp;ve eski imparatorluk ba\u015fkenti&nbsp;<strong>Hoa Lu<\/strong>\u2019yu kaps\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ngo Dong Nehri\u2019nde tekneyle gezerken dikkatinizi ilk \u00e7eken \u015fey, k\u00fcrekleri elleriyle de\u011fil ayaklar\u0131yla \u00e7eken yerel tekne sahipleri oluyor. Nehrin k\u0131vr\u0131mlar\u0131nda ilerlerken, kire\u00e7ta\u015f\u0131 da\u011flar\u0131 suyun \u00fczerinde dev g\u00f6lgeler olu\u015fturuyor; her d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fte kar\u015f\u0131n\u0131za kartpostall\u0131k bir manzara \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Mua Ma\u011faras\u0131<\/strong>\u2019na t\u0131rmanmak biraz efor istiyor ama zirvedeki manzara buna fazlas\u0131yla de\u011fiyor. T\u00fcm Ninh Binh vadisi ayaklar\u0131n\u0131z\u0131n alt\u0131nda uzan\u0131yor. E\u011fer vaktiniz varsa&nbsp;<strong>Trang An<\/strong>&nbsp;turunu da ka\u00e7\u0131rmay\u0131n; kano ile yemye\u015fil ma\u011faralardan ge\u00e7ip UNESCO korumas\u0131ndaki vadilerde s\u00fcz\u00fcl\u00fcyorsunuz.&nbsp;<strong>Van Long Sulak Alan\u0131<\/strong>&nbsp;ise daha sessiz bir rota \u2014 burada nesli t\u00fckenmekte olan&nbsp;<strong>Delacour Languru<\/strong>&nbsp;adl\u0131 maymunlar\u0131 g\u00f6rmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Ha Long K\u00f6rfezi: Efsanenin Ger\u00e7ek Hali<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vietnam\u2019\u0131n kuzeydo\u011fusunda yer alan Ha Long K\u00f6rfezi, ad\u0131n\u0131 bir ejderhan\u0131n denize ini\u015finden al\u0131yor. Bin alt\u0131 y\u00fczden fazla kire\u00e7ta\u015f\u0131 ada, z\u00fcmr\u00fct ye\u015fili sular\u0131n i\u00e7inden y\u00fckseliyor ve ortaya neredeyse ger\u00e7ek\u00fcst\u00fc bir manzara \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor. Bu b\u00f6lge, UNESCO D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 Listesi\u2019nde yer al\u0131yor ve yak\u0131n zamanda \u201cD\u00fcnyan\u0131n yeni yedi do\u011fal harikas\u0131ndan biri\u201d se\u00e7ildi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">K\u00f6rfezi gezmenin en iyi yolu elbette tekne turlar\u0131. \u00c7o\u011fu tur Hanoi\u2019den yakla\u015f\u0131k 2,5 saat uzakl\u0131ktaki&nbsp;<strong>Got \u0130skelesi<\/strong>\u2019nden ba\u015fl\u0131yor. G\u00fcn\u00fcbirlik turlar mevcut, ama ger\u00e7ekten bu manzaray\u0131 sindirmek istiyorsan\u0131z bir gece teknede kal\u0131n. Ak\u015fam, adalar\u0131n g\u00f6lgeleri aras\u0131nda g\u00fcn bat\u0131m\u0131n\u0131 izlemek unutulmaz bir deneyim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Sung Sot Ma\u011faras\u0131<\/strong>, k\u00f6rfezin en b\u00fcy\u00fck ve g\u00f6steri\u015fli ma\u011faras\u0131. Sark\u0131t ve dikitlerle dolu dev odalar sizi yeralt\u0131 d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7inde gibi hissettiriyor. Ma\u011faran\u0131n \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131ndan g\u00f6r\u00fclen manzara ise ba\u015fl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131na bir tablo gibi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">K\u00f6rfezdeki&nbsp;<strong>y\u00fczen k\u00f6yler<\/strong>&nbsp;de ke\u015ffe de\u011fer.&nbsp;<strong>Cua Van<\/strong>&nbsp;ve&nbsp;<strong>Vung Vieng<\/strong>&nbsp;gibi yerlerde, sallar \u00fczerine kurulmu\u015f renkli evlerde ya\u015fayan bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 aileleri g\u00f6rebilirsiniz. \u00c7ocuklar\u0131n teknelerle okula gitti\u011fi, kad\u0131nlar\u0131n suda sebze satt\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu hayat, Vietnam\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fka hi\u00e7bir yerinde bulunmayan bir \u00f6zg\u00fcnl\u00fck ta\u015f\u0131yor. Bazen tur rehberleri arac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131yla bu k\u00f6ylerde \u00f6\u011fle yeme\u011fi yemek de m\u00fcmk\u00fcn \u2014 deniz \u00fczerinde payla\u015f\u0131lan sade bir \u00f6\u011f\u00fcn, size Vietnam k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc anlatan en samimi an olabilir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ziyaret i\u00e7in en ideal zamanlar&nbsp;<strong>ilkbahar (Mart\u2013Nisan)<\/strong>&nbsp;ve&nbsp;<strong>sonbahar (Eyl\u00fcl\u2013Kas\u0131m)<\/strong>. Hava a\u00e7\u0131k, g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fc mavi ve foto\u011fraf i\u00e7in \u0131\u015f\u0131k m\u00fckemmel. Yaz aylar\u0131ndaysa hem nem art\u0131yor hem de turist kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131 yo\u011funla\u015f\u0131yor; sessiz bir yolculuk ar\u0131yorsan\u0131z bu d\u00f6nemleri es ge\u00e7mek iyi olur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<!--nextpage-->\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Da Nang, Vietnam&#8217;\u0131n K\u0131y\u0131 Cazibesi<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Vietnam\u2019\u0131n en cazip kentleri elbette Hanoi ve Ho Chi Minh City, ama \u00fclkenin ortas\u0131nda onlara ciddi bir rakip var:&nbsp;<strong>Da Nang<\/strong>. Plajlar\u0131, s\u0131cak insanlar\u0131 ve rahat atmosferiyle \u00fclkenin yaz turizminin kalbinde. \u00c7o\u011fu gezgin buray\u0131&nbsp;<strong>Hoi An<\/strong>&nbsp;ve&nbsp;<strong>Hue<\/strong>&nbsp;gibi tarihi kentlere ge\u00e7i\u015f noktas\u0131 olarak g\u00f6rse de, \u015fehir ba\u015fl\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131na g\u00f6r\u00fclmeye de\u011fer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>My Khe Plaj\u0131<\/strong>, beyaz kumu ve cam gibi berrak deniziyle d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en g\u00fczel kumsallar\u0131ndan biri. Forbes\u2019un listesine bile girmi\u015f. Daha sakin bir atmosfer arayanlar,&nbsp;<strong>Non Nuoc Plaj\u0131<\/strong>\u2019nda dalgalar\u0131n sesiyle huzuru buluyor. Yerel ailelerin favorisi olan&nbsp;<strong>Bac My An Plaj\u0131<\/strong>&nbsp;ise hem temizli\u011fi hem dinginli\u011fiyle tatil ruhunu ya\u015fat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Deniz \u00fcr\u00fcnleri burada sadece yemek de\u011fil, bir ya\u015fam k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc. Sahil boyunca dizilen lokantalarda taze kalamar, istridye, kabuklular ve bal\u0131klarla donat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f sofralar sizi bekliyor. Her tabak, okyanusun c\u00f6mertli\u011fini anlat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u015eehrin hemen d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda y\u00fckselen&nbsp;<strong>Mermer Da\u011flar\u0131<\/strong>, be\u015f elementin ad\u0131n\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131yan tepelerden olu\u015fuyor: toprak, su, ate\u015f, hava ve metal. Ma\u011faralar, gizli t\u00fcneller ve tap\u0131naklar aras\u0131nda dola\u015fmak hem ruhani hem tarih\u00ee bir ke\u015ffe d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ve tabii Da Nang\u2019\u0131n simgesi:&nbsp;<strong>Ejderha K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc<\/strong>. Han Nehri \u00fczerinde uzanan bu modern yap\u0131 geceleri renkli \u0131\u015f\u0131klarla canlan\u0131yor. Hafta sonlar\u0131ysa k\u00f6pr\u00fcn\u00fcn \u00fczerindeki ejderha ger\u00e7ek anlamda \u201cnefes al\u0131yor\u201d \u2014 ate\u015f ve su p\u00fcsk\u00fcrterek geceyi tiyatroya \u00e7eviriyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Hoi An: Fener I\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131nda Zaman\u0131n Durdu\u011fu Yer<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">UNESCO D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 Listesi\u2019ndeki&nbsp;<strong>Hoi An<\/strong>, Vietnam\u2019\u0131n orta sahilinde tarihle huzurun i\u00e7 i\u00e7e ge\u00e7ti\u011fi b\u00fcy\u00fcl\u00fc bir kasaba. 15. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan kalma t\u00fcccar evleri, sar\u0131 duvarlar\u0131, ah\u015fap cepheli d\u00fckkanlar\u0131 ve gece karanl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda dans eden renkli fenerleriyle tam bir a\u00e7\u0131k hava sahnesi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Buray\u0131 gezmenin en g\u00fczel yolu acele etmemek. Bir sokak kafesinde oturup nehir kenar\u0131ndaki hayat\u0131 izlemek, Hoi An deneyiminin \u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc yakalaman\u0131n en iyi yolu.&nbsp;<strong>Japon K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc<\/strong>&nbsp;kasaban\u0131n sembol\u00fc; 16. y\u00fczy\u0131lda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f ve i\u00e7inde k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir tap\u0131nak gizli. Yak\u0131ndaki&nbsp;<strong>Tan Ky Evi<\/strong>&nbsp;ve&nbsp;<strong>Fujian Toplant\u0131 Salonu<\/strong>, Hoi An\u2019\u0131n \u00e7ok k\u00fclt\u00fcrl\u00fc tarihine \u0131\u015f\u0131k tutuyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dolunay zaman\u0131na denk gelirseniz,&nbsp;<strong>Fener Festivali<\/strong>\u2019ni ka\u00e7\u0131rmay\u0131n. Binlerce fenerin suya yans\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131 gecelerde kasaba b\u00fct\u00fcn\u00fcyle masals\u0131 bir h\u00e2l al\u0131yor. Evet, art\u0131k kalabal\u0131k ve turistik ama b\u00fcy\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fc h\u00e2l\u00e2 koruyor. Hoi An, sessizlik arayanlar i\u00e7in de\u011fil; ya\u015fam\u0131 a\u011f\u0131rdan alanlar i\u00e7in bir durak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Hue: \u0130mparatorluk Ba\u015fkenti\u2019nin Sessiz \u0130hti\u015fam\u0131<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bir zamanlar krallar\u0131n, saraylar\u0131n ve \u015fairlerin \u015fehri olan&nbsp;<strong>Hue<\/strong>, Parf\u00fcm Nehri k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda Vietnam\u2019\u0131n zarif ge\u00e7mi\u015fini anlat\u0131yor. 19. y\u00fczy\u0131lda&nbsp;<strong>Nguyen Hanedanl\u0131\u011f\u0131<\/strong>\u2019na ba\u015fkentlik yapm\u0131\u015f bu \u015fehir, bug\u00fcn de o d\u00f6nemden kalan mistik havay\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Gezinin kalbi, y\u00fcksek duvarlarla \u00e7evrili&nbsp;<strong>\u0130mparatorluk \u015eehri<\/strong>. \u0130\u00e7inde saraylar, tap\u0131naklar ve yemye\u015fil bah\u00e7eler bulunuyor; buradaki&nbsp;<strong>Yasak Mor \u015eehir<\/strong>, eski kraliyet ya\u015fam\u0131n\u0131n sessiz bir hat\u0131ras\u0131. Nehir k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki&nbsp;<strong>Thien Mu Pagodas\u0131<\/strong>, Hue\u2019nin en tan\u0131nan yap\u0131s\u0131. Pagodan\u0131n yan\u0131nda, Budist rahip&nbsp;<strong>Thich Quang Duc<\/strong>\u2019un 1963\u2019te Saygon\u2019a giderken kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131 arabay\u0131 g\u00f6rmek, Vietnam\u2019\u0131n \u00e7alkant\u0131l\u0131 tarihini an\u0131msat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Parf\u00fcm Nehri\u2019nde ejderha bi\u00e7imli teknelerle yap\u0131lan turlar, sizi ge\u00e7mi\u015fle bug\u00fcn\u00fcn aras\u0131nda gezdiriyor. \u015eehir yak\u0131nlar\u0131ndaki&nbsp;<strong>Thanh Tien k\u00f6y\u00fc<\/strong>, renkli k\u00e2\u011f\u0131t \u00e7i\u00e7ekleriyle;&nbsp;<strong>Phu Cam k\u00f6y\u00fc<\/strong>&nbsp;ise zarif konik \u015fapkalar\u0131yla tan\u0131n\u0131yor. Bu gelenekler, Hue\u2019nin k\u00fclt\u00fcrel miras\u0131n\u0131n h\u00e2l\u00e2 canl\u0131 oldu\u011funu g\u00f6steriyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ak\u015famlar\u0131&nbsp;<strong>Hue Kraliyet M\u00fczi\u011fi<\/strong>&nbsp;konserleri veya sokakta yank\u0131lanan saz ezgileri, \u015fehrin ruhunu en saf haliyle hissetmenizi sa\u011fl\u0131yor. \u015eehirden biraz uzakla\u015fmak isteyenler i\u00e7in&nbsp;<strong>Bach Ma Ulusal Park\u0131<\/strong>&nbsp;yemye\u015fil ormanlar\u0131 ve \u015felaleleriyle huzurlu bir ka\u00e7\u0131\u015f noktas\u0131.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00c7o\u011fu gezgin i\u00e7in Vietnam \u00fc\u00e7 \u015feyle an\u0131l\u0131r: \u00c7\u0131lg\u0131n \u015fehirler, do\u011fal g\u00fczellikler ve yemekler. Vietnam hakk\u0131nda co\u011frafya, iklim, ke\u015fifler ve g\u00fczergahlar\u0131 kapsayan baz\u0131 seyahat bilgilerini sunmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015faca\u011f\u0131m. Ha Long&#8217;un sivri tepelerinden Mekong Deltas\u0131&#8217;n\u0131n durgun sular\u0131na, Hoi An&#8217;\u0131n hardal sar\u0131s\u0131 duvarlar\u0131ndan, Hue&#8217;nin ejderhal\u0131 merdivenlerine, Saygon&#8217;un karma\u015fas\u0131ndan Hanoi&#8217;nin gizemlerine uzanan biraz detayl\u0131 bir yaz\u0131 olacak.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":98750,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"video","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[13],"tags":[1485,1488,1491,1489,1490,1486,1493,1484,1492,1487,1496,1494,1498,1500,1497,1502,1503,1495,1499,1501,1510,1505,1506,1508,1507,1504,1511,1512,1509,1513,1516,1514,1515,1518,1520,1521,1522,1517,1519,1523],"class_list":["post-98748","post","type-post","status-publish","format-video","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-gezi","tag-cu-chi-tunel-kompleksi","tag-cu-chi-tunelleri","tag-cinhindi","tag-edebiyat-tapinagi","tag-fransiz-mahallesi","tag-guney-vietnam","tag-guneydogu-asya","tag-ha-long","tag-ha-long-korfezi","tag-hanoi-hilton","tag-hanoi-tren-sokagi","tag-ho-chi-minh","tag-ho-chi-minh-mozolesi","tag-ho-hoan-kiem-golu","tag-hoi-an","tag-hue","tag-kuzey-vietnam","tag-mekong-deltasi","tag-motosiklet","tag-my-khe-plaji","tag-my-tho-sehri","tag-ngoc-son-tapinagi","tag-ninh-binh","tag-pho-yemek","tag-savas-kalintilari-muzesi","tag-saygon","tag-saygon-postanesi","tag-tet-saldirisi","tag-thang-long-imparatorluk-kalesi","tag-thap-rua-kaplumbaga-kulesi","tag-thoi-son-adasi","tag-tonkin-korfezi-olayi","tag-viet-cong","tag-vietnam","tag-vietnam-etnoloji-muzesi","tag-vietnam-evleri","tag-vietnam-gezisi","tag-vietnam-kahvesi","tag-vietnam-savasi","tag-vietnam-seyahati","post_format-post-format-video"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/98748","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=98748"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/98748\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/98750"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=98748"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=98748"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=98748"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}