{"id":332,"date":"2009-08-02T00:45:46","date_gmt":"2009-08-01T21:45:46","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/?p=332"},"modified":"2023-03-10T15:44:39","modified_gmt":"2023-03-10T12:44:39","slug":"sarap-tadinda-bir-yolculuk","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/sarap-tadinda-bir-yolculuk\/","title":{"rendered":"\u015earap tad\u0131nda bir yolculuk"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Lavaux<\/strong> – \u201cGe\u00e7iyor \u0130svi\u00e7re camdan
g\u00fcne\u015fli bir akvaryumdan
ge\u00e7en bir bal\u0131k gibi,
\u00e7ok renkli bir bal\u0131k.
Bak\u0131yorum vagonumdan
kederli
alayc\u0131
\u00f6fkeli biraz da al\u0131k
bak\u0131yorum vagonumdan
not al\u0131yorum
\u0130svi\u00e7re \u00fcst\u00fcne do\u011fru yanl\u0131\u015f bildiklerimi
g\u00f6rd\u00fcklerime katarak\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Naz\u0131m Hikmet, Fransa\u2019ya yakla\u015f\u0131rken g\u00f6rd\u00fcklerini \u201c\u0130svi\u00e7re\u2019den Ge\u00e7erken\u201d adl\u0131 \u015fiirinin giri\u015finde b\u00f6yle aktar\u0131yor. Usta\u2019n\u0131n tren penceresinden izledi\u011fi manzara muhtemelen Cenevre G\u00f6l\u00fc civar\u0131. Ayn\u0131 hatta Fransa\u2019ya do\u011fru yol al\u0131rken Naz\u0131m\u2019\u0131n penceresinden izliyorum \u0130svi\u00e7re\u2019yi. Kederli, alayc\u0131, \u00f6fkeli biraz da al\u0131k\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cenevre G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019ne yakla\u015f\u0131rken tren bir t\u00fcnele giriyor. Ortam, \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131 bir anda kararan sahneyi and\u0131r\u0131yor. Sanki gizemli bir el, dekoru yeniliyor. T\u00fcnel \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131nda bamba\u015fka bir manzara beliriyor. Raylar\u0131n hemen dibinden ba\u015flayan yama\u00e7ta irili ufakl\u0131 binalar, kar\u015f\u0131da Fransa, sa\u011f tarafta y\u00fckselen da\u011flar ve ortas\u0131ndan ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz z\u00fcmr\u00fct ye\u015fili \u00fcz\u00fcm ba\u011flar\u0131…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2018\u015earap Hatt\u0131\u2019 da deniliyor bu g\u00fczergaha. Tren a\u011f\u0131r a\u011f\u0131r ilerlerken, nereden geldi\u011fini anlayamad\u0131\u011f\u0131m bir sese kulak veriyorum: \u201c\u0130lk durakta in ve manzaran\u0131n i\u00e7ine kar\u0131\u015f. D\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f biletini unut. Burada harcayaca\u011f\u0131n zaman\u0131n de\u011ferini daha sonra anlayacaks\u0131n! \u201d<\/em> Bu sesi dinlemek laz\u0131m deyip \u015farap \u00fclkesinin kalbinde trenden iniyorum. \u0130stasyonun Lozan oldu\u011funu \u00f6\u011freniyorum. Az \u00f6nce g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm manzaran\u0131n d\u00fc\u015f m\u00fc yoksa ger\u00e7ek mi oldu\u011funu anlamam ise biraz zaman alacak. Hedefim az \u00f6nce belirip kaybolan \u00fcz\u00fcm ba\u011flar\u0131. Cenevre G\u00f6l\u00fc k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndan Montr\u00f6\u2019ye do\u011fru geri d\u00f6n\u00fcyorum. Vevey\u2019de da\u011flara sapan bir yol k\u0131vr\u0131la k\u0131vr\u0131la y\u00fckseliyor ve az \u00f6nceki d\u00fc\u015fsel mekana do\u011fru devam ediyor. Birazdan, tren cam\u0131ndan izledi\u011fim \u00fcz\u00fcm ba\u011flar\u0131 aras\u0131nda buluyorum kendimi. G\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fcn parlak mavisi, beyaz bulutlarla s\u00fcsl\u00fc. Bulundu\u011fum noktan\u0131n her a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131, kartpostal g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcndeki manzarayla kapl\u0131. G\u00f6l\u00fcn di\u011fer k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda y\u00fckselen Savoie da\u011f\u0131n\u0131n lacivert g\u00f6lgesi suya d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor. Do\u011fan\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fcleyici g\u00fczelli\u011fi i\u00e7inde tarihin arma\u011fan\u0131 k\u00f6yler gizlenmi\u015f. Ba\u011flar\u0131n aras\u0131nda kaybolan k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 \u00e7at\u0131l\u0131 ta\u015f evler birer \u00fcz\u00fcm salk\u0131m\u0131n\u0131 and\u0131r\u0131yor. G\u00f6rd\u00fcklerimin hayal olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 Lavaux ba\u011flar\u0131ndaki \u00fcz\u00fcmlerin kokusunu ald\u0131\u011f\u0131mda anl\u0131yorum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chexbres k\u00f6y\u00fc yak\u0131nlar\u0131nda, ba\u011flar\u0131n ortas\u0131nda, y\u00fcksek\u00e7e bir yama\u00e7ta bulunan Le Baron Tavernier ile yolum kesi\u015fti\u011finde, \u015farab\u0131n oldu\u011fu yerde lezzetli yiyeceklerin de oldu\u011funu bir kez daha hat\u0131rl\u0131yorum. Bu restoran, g\u00f6ldeki tatl\u0131su levre\u011finin karadaki adresi olarak \u00fcn yapm\u0131\u015f. Sundu\u011fu lezzetlerin d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda en \u00f6nemli \u00f6zelli\u011fi manzaras\u0131. \u00dcz\u00fcm salk\u0131mlar\u0131 bah\u00e7eye kadar uzan\u0131yor. Masalardaki bal\u0131k kokusuna Chasselas \u015faraplar\u0131 e\u015flik ediyor. Ba\u011flar\u0131n aras\u0131nda uzanan k\u00f6yleri ve \u015farap evlerini de g\u00f6rmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. Grandvaux, Epesses, Cully, St.-Saphorin\u2026 Her biri sanki tan\u0131nm\u0131\u015f birer markay\u0131 and\u0131ran bu k\u00f6yler y\u00fczy\u0131llard\u0131r \u015farap\u00e7\u0131l\u0131kla u\u011fra\u015f\u0131yor. \u00dcretilen \u015faraplar yerel halk taraf\u0131ndan t\u00fcketiliyor. Bir k\u0131sm\u0131 da di\u011fer kentlere g\u00f6nderilmek \u00fczere saklan\u0131yor. \u00dcretilen t\u00fcm \u015farap markalar\u0131n\u0131 k\u00f6y meydanlar\u0131nda tatmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. 270 \u015farap \u00fcreticisi, \u00fcr\u00fcnlerini burada sergiliyor. Deg\u00fcstasyonda sunulan \u015farab\u0131n yan\u0131nda ikram edilen gevrek grisinileri, peynir \u00e7e\u015fitlerini ve ev yemeklerini de unutmamak laz\u0131m. Kaliteli \u015farab\u0131 ve lezzetli mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131nda gelenlere b\u00f6lgenin manzaras\u0131n\u0131 da sunan \u015farap \u00fcreticileri geleneksel metodlara sad\u0131k kal\u0131p globalle\u015fmeden de uzak duruyor. Chasselas \u00fcz\u00fcmlerinden elde edilen \u015faraplar\u0131n en \u00f6nemli \u00f6zelli\u011fi damakta p\u00fcr\u00fczs\u00fcz bir tad b\u0131rakmas\u0131. Bu tad\u0131n olu\u015fmas\u0131nda \u00fcz\u00fcmler kadar ba\u011flar\u0131n e\u011fimi ve g\u00f6l\u00fcn konumu da etkili oluyor. Yerel halk, g\u00f6le d\u00fc\u015fen g\u00fcne\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131nlar\u0131n\u0131n yama\u00e7lara yans\u0131mas\u0131n\u0131 i\u015fin s\u0131rr\u0131 olarak \u00f6zetliyor. Tabi as\u0131rl\u0131k ta\u015f binalardaki serin mahzenleri de unutmamak laz\u0131m.
\u0130svi\u00e7re\u2019nin en iyi \u015faraplar\u0131n\u0131 \u00fcreten b\u00f6lge d\u00fcnya \u015farap liginin de zirvesinde. D\u00e9zaley, Calamin, Epesses ve St Saphorin gibi isimlerin de bulundu\u011fu sekiz marka Frans\u0131z h\u00fck\u00fcmeti taraf\u0131ndan verilen kalite belgesi AOC etiketi ta\u015f\u0131yor. \u00dcz\u00fcm ba\u011flar\u0131, b\u00f6lgeye gelen turistleri etkilemekle kalmay\u0131p UNESCO\u2019nun da dikkatini \u00e7ekmi\u015f. 2007 y\u0131l\u0131nda D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 Listesi’ne al\u0131nan Lavaux ba\u011flar\u0131 ve \u00e7evredeki k\u00f6yler, \u00c7in Seddi ya da Ta\u00e7 Mahal kadar tan\u0131nmasa da 800 y\u0131ll\u0131k ge\u00e7mi\u015fe sahip. As\u0131rl\u0131k binalarda sesiz sakin ya\u015fayan ailelerin soylar\u0131, b\u00f6lgedeki ilk \u015farap \u00fcreticisi Romal\u0131 askerler dek uzan\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lavaux b\u00f6lgesinden ayr\u0131l\u0131rken trende kula\u011f\u0131ma f\u0131s\u0131ldayan esrarengiz sesi hat\u0131rl\u0131yorum. Ba\u011flar\u0131n aras\u0131nda kaybolman\u0131n \u015farap tad\u0131ndaki keyfi, iptal edilen biletlere de\u011fiyor.
Buraya yolu d\u00fc\u015fen herkesin d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f biletini yakmas\u0131 dile\u011fiyle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lavaux Foto\u011fraflar\u0131<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

( Bu yaz\u0131 02 Agustos 2009 tarihinde Cumhuriyet Gazetesi<\/a>‘nde yay\u0131nlanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.)<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"020809_sarap\"<\/a><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Lavaux – \u201cGe\u00e7iyor \u0130svi\u00e7re camdang\u00fcne\u015fli bir akvaryumdange\u00e7en bir bal\u0131k gibi,\u00e7ok renkli bir bal\u0131k.Bak\u0131yorum vagonumdankederlialayc\u0131\u00f6fkeli biraz da al\u0131kbak\u0131yorum vagonumdannot al\u0131yorum\u0130svi\u00e7re \u00fcst\u00fcne do\u011fru yanl\u0131\u015f bildiklerimig\u00f6rd\u00fcklerime katarak\u201d Naz\u0131m Hikmet, Fransa\u2019ya yakla\u015f\u0131rken g\u00f6rd\u00fcklerini \u201c\u0130svi\u00e7re\u2019den Ge\u00e7erken\u201d adl\u0131 \u015fiirinin giri\u015finde b\u00f6yle aktar\u0131yor. Usta\u2019n\u0131n tren penceresinden izledi\u011fi manzara muhtemelen Cenevre G\u00f6l\u00fc civar\u0131. Ayn\u0131 hatta Fransa\u2019ya do\u011fru yol al\u0131rken Naz\u0131m\u2019\u0131n penceresinden izliyorum \u0130svi\u00e7re\u2019yi. Kederli, alayc\u0131, \u00f6fkeli biraz da al\u0131k\u2026 Cenevre G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019ne yakla\u015f\u0131rken tren bir t\u00fcnele giriyor. Ortam, \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131 bir anda kararan sahneyi and\u0131r\u0131yor. Sanki gizemli bir el, dekoru yeniliyor. T\u00fcnel \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131nda bamba\u015fka bir manzara beliriyor. Raylar\u0131n hemen dibinden ba\u015flayan yama\u00e7ta irili ufakl\u0131 binalar, kar\u015f\u0131da Fransa, sa\u011f tarafta y\u00fckselen<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":358,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1339],"tags":[165,89],"class_list":["post-332","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-remzi-gokdag-cumhuriyet-haber-arsivi-isvicre","tag-isvicre","tag-lavaux"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/332","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=332"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/332\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/358"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=332"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=332"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.remgo.com\/11\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=332"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}